Cooking Khmer style
Whilst on the food front, try these websites by two of my pals, for more tasty morsels: Kim Fay's Serveitforth blog and Karen J Coates' Ramblingspoon.
Cambodia - Temples, Books, Films and ruminations...
What began as a university project for Chris Cook and Matt Wenham has turned into much more for the two fledgling British film-makers. A trip to Cambodia in the summer of 2005 was the catalyst for the two friends, who have now completed a thirty minute documentary, Cambodia's Forgotten Children, which offers a unique insight into the problems facing young people in Phnom Penh today. The film takes you to the capital's poorest areas and explains why so many children are at risk from exploitation, while introducing the viewer to some of the NGO's that are trying to help. A series of touching interviews and hard hitting footage will highlight an underprivileged and vulnerable youth, whose spirit and resilience shines through against all odds.
One of my favoured haunts in Phnom Penh is the National Museum, often alive to the chatter of school-children visiting its permanent exhibitions containing around 1,500 pieces on display and no less than another 14,000 objects in the museum's basement. A hive of activity is taking place behind the scenes to catalogue and conserve each of these items and from time to time, some of the most precious exhibits are allowed to leave the country. Exhibitions of Khmer art have taken place in America, France and Japan and another tour, this time to Germany, will take place in December. From 15 December through til 9 April 2007, Bonn will host the 'Angkor - Sacred Heritage of Cambodia' exhibition, which will contain 140 Khmer treasures of stone sculptures, bronze figures, silver objects and paintings.
Do you recognise this living icon of Angkor? His name is Choun Nhiem, he's eighty-four years old and features in the photos of thousands of tourists that have visited the Angkorean temple of Ta Prohm. Many will recognise his face, his hunched stature, and like the white-robed nuns who tend the statues at Bayon and the sweet little girls who sell trinkets and souvenirs amongst the temples, he's become one of Angkor's living icons. A widow and nearly blind, Choun Nhiem spends his days sweeping leaves from the courtyards and corridors of Ta Prohm and is recognised by many from his appearance on the cover of the Lonely Planet guidebook. For the past fifteen years he's been as much a part of Ta Prohm as the roots and trees that clasp the temple walls in their vice-like grip. Choun Nhiem was a labourer at the Angkor site before the Khmer Rouge years, during which he lost two sons. He lives in a small village near the temple, has three surviving children and returns to Ta Prohm every day to carry out his duties, and to sell the occasional trinket to tourists - he offered me a small cowbell when I first met him in 1997. I've seen Choun Nhiem every time I've returned to the temple on my visits to Angkor, and I hope to see him for many years to come, Ta Prohm wouldn't be the same without him.
The latest quarterly edition of Tourism Asean (Sept-Dec) has just arrived through my letter-box. This is a gorgeously glossy trade magazine published in Singapore and sent to travel agents around the globe, in order to promote the exotic locations of Asia. In the previous edition, my own story on the Tonle Sap Lake was included, this time around, my 'Touring the Temples of Kompong Cham' article and a handful of colour photos took up two pages and sat between articles on Myanmar and Saigon.
Dara Duong is someone who makes things happen. Since his arrival in the USA in 1999 he has made it his mission to educate people about the country of his birth and its rich traditions. He created the Cambodian Cultural Museum and Killing Fields Memorial, which began in his garage and is now in Seattle and open to the public. Another avenue to educate others is through a documentary film that the 35 year old has recently completed. Through first hand accounts, archival footage, and the re-enactment of the 1972 murder of his father, Searching For The Truth is Duong's journey back to Cambodia to investigate what took place, and why. He includes rare footage of his own interviews with two key architects of the Khmer Rouge regime, Nuon Chea and Khieu Samphan.
We're just days away from celebrating the 20th anniversary of the popular BBC tv medical drama, Casualty and their double episode that takes their central characters on a journey to Cambodia. Duffy, played by Cathy Shipton (above), opens a rural clinic with the help of her old pals Charlie, Abs, Guppy and Comfort, and of course the usual selection of medical emergencies. Back home, in exchange for the medical staff whizzing off to Cambodia, a Khmer doctor is on an exchange visit to England, played by actor Bounsy Luang Thinith. The two episode curtain-raiser for the new series take place on BBC1 at 8.20pm on Saturday 23rd, and 8pm on Sunday 24th. In an interview with The Daily Record, Cathy Shipton was gushing in her praise of her 4-week visit to Cambodia; "... it was an amazing experience and going there made me realise how lucky I am. The poverty is awful but I'll always remember how welcoming the people in Cambodia were. They smiled morning, noon and night....I'd love to return and teach in a school for a couple of months when my daughter is a bit older. It is a wonderful country."
After posting the Beyond the Killing Fields blog entry yesterday, I recalled that Em Theay (pictured) was the main subject of a documentary I watched many years ago called The Tenth Dancer, which focused on the strength and resilience of the women of Cambodia in rebuilding their traditions from the fragments of a shattered society. The Khmer Rouge were responsible for the death or disappearance of over 90% of Cambodian artists, including most of the dancers of the Royal Ballet. Theay was one of the 10% to survive. The Tenth Dancer was made as long ago as 1993. Em Theay is still dancing and teaching today and performing abroad at the age of 75 years old - by anyone's reckoning that is a remarkable story.
The above photo is from the docu-performance, The Continuum - Beyond the Killing Fields, which has played across the globe and which participated in the Gothenberg Festival at the end of August in Sweden. On the right is Kulikar Sotho, who usually acts as the show's translator and organiser but had to miss the Sweden trip after a courier lost her passport. The performance premiered in America in 2001 and has since played in Berlin, Rotterdam, Vienna, Singapore, Phnom Penh and London. Its the tale, in spoken word, dance, song, shadow puppets, video and music, of the lives of Cambodian artists who survived the Khmer Rouge massacres, including 75 year old Em Theay, principal dancer of the royal classical ballet and master puppeteer Mann Kosal. Theay is known as the Tenth Dancer; for each one who lived, nine others didn’t. Three of her sisters, all dancers, perished, along with seven of her children, a granddaughter and a son-in-law. She is now a kru, a master teacher, imparting her art to a generation robbed of its traditions. The show is produced by Singapore's Theatre Works company. To read the background behind the show, click here. And to find out more about Kulikar, click here. Photo courtesy of Mara Lavitt.
Last weekend I caught up with Leonie Smith, one of my favourite singers, backstage at The Drum in Aston, Birmingham. Leonie had just performed backing vocals with the group Gabbidon as part of the annual Birmingham ArtsFest. She has another upcoming gig with Gabbidon at The Jam House in Birmingham on Wednesday 27 September and has some other irons in the fire, so keep an eye on her webpage here. Leonie has also just started a new role, as a children's mentor, working with Birmingham City football club. I was immediately won over with her passion, energy and vocal range when I first saw her perform in 2004 and since then she's worked with a variety of performers such as Pato Banton, Janet Kay and Caroll Thompson and of course Gabbidon and TuffLuv. She is a very talented and confident performer with a strong stage presence, and equally at home in any genre of music, whether it be reggae, soul or jazz - catch her live if you can.
Ronnie Yimsut's memoir, Journey Into Light, which recalls his experiences as a 15-year old boy who survived five years of civil war, three years in a labour camp, Thai prison, and refugee camps before becoming a naturalized US citizen, is now available in Cambodia. Published by DC-Cam in Phnom Penh and translated by Eng Kok-Thay, each individual chapter is being published in the local Reaksmei Kampuchea, Cambodia's largest newspaper. The English version is being edited as I type and a publisher is being sought. Ronnie (pictured), a survivor of the KR period, now lives in Oregon and is a landscape architect. Some of his stories can already be found on the internet and in the book, Children of Cambodia's Killing Fields, compiled by Dith Pran. He also appeared in the film Bombhunters that I featured on my blog recently, a subject close to his heart as his eldest brother is a landmine amputee.
As if wandering around the Angkor temple complex wasn't exhausting enough for most people, those with more energy than sense can help to raise funds for Cambodian children by taking part in the annual Angkor Wat International Half-Marathon and Bike Race in partnership with Hearts of Gold, a Japanese organization working to assist land mine survivors, and Village Focus International. The races will take place this December 16 (Bike Race) and 17 (Half-Marathon) on a course that will wind through the temple complex. All proceeds will benefit land mine survivors and VFI child protection projects in the country. Just in case you are keen to put yourself through this extreme fitness program for a good cause - its 21 kilometres for the half-marathon and 85 kms for the bike race - go to the VFI website here. And good luck.
Human rights advocate Mu Sochua was born fifty years ago to an affluent Phnom Penh family but was sent to Paris by her parents in the early 70s as Cambodia became a battleground. She never saw her parents again as they were lost to the abyss created by the Khmer Rouge. However, she returned to the country of her birth in 1989 and has since spoken out on human trafficking, women's rights and worker exploitation and shows no sign of slowing down. During her 18 years in exile, Mu Sochua spent time in Paris, California and Italy as well as working in the refugee camps along the Thai-Cambodian border. On her return, she formed the first organization for women called Khemara and joined the FUNCINPEC political party, winning a national assembly seat representing Battambang in 1998, and soon afterwards was asked to take over the Ministry of Women's and Veterans' Affairs, one of only two women in the cabinet. Her tenure as Minister was marked by campaigns and programs that made a difference to the lives of women in Cambodia as well as highlighting the human rights deficencies she found all around her.
Documentary filmmaker S. Smith Patrick is based in San Francisco and her film and photography work focuses on human rights and indigenous cultural issues in such places as Palestine, Aboriginal Australia and Vietnam. Currently in post production is her film, Seeing Siem Reap, where she looks deeply into the lives of Cambodian street kids in Siem Reap who take part in a photography and dance workshop, giving them the opportunity to express and educate themselves, and perhaps give them an alternative to life on the streets. The one-week workshop took place in October 2005 as part of the Angkor Photography Festival and the goal of this documentary is for viewers to learn about their lives and to inspire them to support education as a weapon against poverty. S. Smith Patrick (pictured) is the film's producer, director, writer and editor. You can read more about the film here. My thanks to Khmer440 for the link.
Nearly three years ago I met Vansy at a children's party. She was kicking lumps out of the boys and me in a game of football and did it with a beaming smile and a wicked laugh. She won me over immediately. I've subsequently caught up with Vansy and her family on my last two visits to Cambodia and she's growing up to be a daughter to be proud of. Her family live in a typical wooden home on stilts and even regular schooling for a few hours each day isn't guaranteed. Nevertheless, like so many schoolchildren of her age, she's determined to learn English and is making good progress judging by our conversation in January. I've just received some recent photos of Vansy - the value of mobile phone technology shouldn't be understated - and I'm looking forward to a stint in front of her school-class on my next visit to Cambodia. To find out more about Vansy, click here.
Putsata Reang (pictured), journalist and author, was born in Cambodia thirty years ago and has now returned to the country of her birth to help train investigative reporters of the future in Phnom Penh, having received much acclaim for her own book, Deadly Secrets: From High School to High Crime, published in 2001. Born in Ream, Cambodia, she escaped with her family in 1975 and was raised in Corvallis, Oregon, where she worked for several newspapers, including the Seattle Times, the Spokesman Review (Spokane, WA), the Oregonian (Portland, Oregon) and the San Jose Mercury News. As a reporter she covered the crime, the investigation, the trial, and it's aftermath of a series of brutal murders by two high school dropouts which she illuminated in her book, Deadly Secrets.
Last night on Channel 4 television in the UK, the Alive series brought us the story of Chris Moon, the British de-miner who was captured by the Khmer Rouge in 1993 and lived to tell the tale, in Kidnapped in the Killing Fields. It was a dramatised reconstruction with Moon himself providing most of the commentary. As the credits rolled at the end, I saw that my pals Kulikar Sotho, as the programme's Fixer, and Nick Ray were involved in supporting the filming in Cambodia, which they tell me took place in July 2005 and lasted about two weeks. The location for the filming was the village of Tahan on Phnom Kulen, which was used to replicate the Khmer Rouge stronghold that Moon and his interpreter and driver were taken to and held captive for three days. My blog post on Chris Moon contains more information about the programme.
Continuing the music theme, I watched a small part of the Birmingham ArtsFest last night, in Centenary Square, and particularly enjoyed the drumming from Handsworth's Dhol Blasters, the excellent guitar work of Slowburner's Mike Bannister and an acoustic set from Gabbidon. The latter was my main reason for attending this year's event, which regrettably doesn't include ReggaeRockz, though I'm reliably informed that part of ArtsFest will return in 2007. The set from Gabbidon contained six songs including Satta Massagana, Respect For Jah and Exodus, with Basil Gabbidon and Faisal on guitars, Colin on conga drum and Leonie Smith (pictured) and Sonia on backing vocals. Much later in the evening, at the after-show party at The Drum, Gabbidon re-appeared after a nice reggae set from Rockstone and the Y2K band. Joining the acoustic line-up was Paul Beckford on bass with Gabbidon belting out the same set as earlier in the evening but with a real reggae-rock kick. Don't forget that Gabbidon will be appearing at the Jam House in Birmingham on Wednesday 27 September - its well worth making the effort to get along and enjoy this top-notch band. And you can read more about Leonie Smith here. 
Two organisations that have recently taken up the challenge to make a real difference to the underprivileged and impoverished in Cambodia are my old friends at Hanuman Tourism and The Cambodian Children’s Advocacy Foundation. Hanuman, already well-established as a top provider of tourism services in Cambodia, have now set up a charitable body called The Hanuman Foundation to support grass-roots anti-poverty programmes in the more remote areas that their tours visit. They plan to concentrate on the fundamentals first, providing access to cleaner water for communities by drilling wells and supplying water filters, providing protection against life-threatening diseases such as malaria through the provision of mosquito nets and improving the quality of materials in remote local schools. They will focus on communities in Preah Vihear and Siem Reap provinces initially, as well as initiatives to assist the disadvantaged ethnic minorities of the northeast, including the Pnong people of Mondulkiri and the Jarai of Ratanakiri. Hanuman also plan to work with a selected group of NGOs and have chosen a combination of causes to ensure they assist in areas such as healthcare, education, child welfare, landmine clearance, heritage preservation and the promotion of arts and culture, working with their partners to make tourism a force for positive change in Cambodia. To find out more about Hanuman's plans, click here.
Vittorio Roveda's latest publication, Images of the Gods, is an impressively comprehensive undertaking which presents the author's own meticulous research into the meaning and messages of the vast array of Khmer motifs and myths portrayed in the temples of Cambodia, Thailand and Laos. On lintels, pediments, statues and in bas-relief, the lives and legends of Hindu gods, adopted and transformed from Indian sources and Buddhist themes, come to life. And in this encyclopedic tome, Roveda examines those themes in rich detail.
A new publication called Early Civilizations of Southeast Asia will be released in November and will contain an analysis of the prehistoric societies and events that shaped the Southeast Asia region in ancient times. Its written by HeritageWatch Director Dougald O'Reilly and is to be published by AltaMira Press. The book examines the proto-historical cultures of Myanmar, Thailand, Malaysia, Cambodia and Vietnam. O'Reilly's interest in this subject began while he was earning his doctorate from New Zealand's University of Otago, where he focused his dissertation on the Bronze and Iron Ages in Thailand. As a UNESCO lecturer at the Royal University of Fine Arts in Phnom Penh - and later as Director of Heritage Watch - he has continued this study by excavating major Iron Age sites in Cambodia such as Phum Snay and Wat Jas. Over the next three years, O'Reilly (pictured) will further investigate this era in Cambodian history with the University of Sydney. Regrettably, such research grows more difficult by the day as Bronze and Iron Age sites are being looted and destroyed at an unprecedented rate throughout Southeast Asia - a fact highlighted by HeritageWatch at their website.
Brit Andy Booth lives in Italy with his family and like so many before and after him, fell in love with Cambodia on his first visit. He was so impressed with the professionalism of his guide on that trip that he joined forces with Siem Reap-based guide Phalla Chan, to form Sage Insights, a travel company with a difference. They pride themselves on providing a quality service tailor-made for their customers, whilst giving half of their profits to the Sage Foundation, a charitable trust focusing on providing education for orphans, street kids and children from the poorest families. You can read more about Sage Insights here. Taking time out from visiting his parents nearby, I spent this afternoon with Andy at the Gloucester versus Bath rugby match where the talk was all about Cambodia rather than the rugby.