Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Last look

These dancing figures could be termed apsaras, though the one in the middle has a face that resembles someone chewing a wasp
Wrapping up my recent visit to the Terrace of the Leper King, which some believe was used for funeral functions when it was first sculpted in the 13th century, a few more pictures from inside the secret passageway - obviously no longer a secret after the EFEO renovators opened it to the public - and a section of the outer wall that's in good condition, at the northern end of the terrace. There's a replica statue sitting on top of the platform - the original sits in the courtyard of the national museum - and is either one the Khmer kings who suffered from leprosy and gave the terrace its name or, more likely, Yama, the god of death, and overseeing the cremations that took place there. You choose. Here's a tip, it's Yama.
Another royal figure surrounded by courtiers, and no, they are not paddling a canoe
A look at a section of the inner secret passageway. Note the massive naga at the base.
This part of the northern outer terrace is in good condition. Note the multi-coloured sections of the wall.
A King with identifying short sword, in regal pose
Attendants at the royal court in various poses
Don't try this at home. A sword swallower tries to impress the King whilst spearing the head of his little friend

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Saturday, March 27, 2010

Secret friezes

A King sits in the royal court, identified by his short broadsword, fanned by attentive concubines
Most of you who've been to the Angkor temples near Siem Reap, will have visited the massive city of Angkor Thom and within its central area, the Terrace of the Leper King. Not as immediately obvious as its nextdoor neighbour, the Elephant Terrace, the outside wall of the Leper King version hasn't fared too well over the years and many of the sections of carvings are badly weathered and simply not photogenic. But step inside the 'secret' passageway just a couple of metres behind the outside wall, and you enter a zig-zag world of kings and concubines, heavenly dancers and giant naga snakes, where many of the sculptures are in pristine condition, having been hidden from view for hundreds of years. The height of the terrace wall is about seven metres which allows multi-tiered friezes, full of finely-etched figures, that were meticulously restored by the EFEO team under Christophe Pottier between 1993 and 1996. Previous attempts to renovate the terrace had been made before, the last was in 1972 but the civil war put an end to that and it was up to Pottier and his team to complete the work. And what a great job they've done too. The terrace was originally constructed in the 13th century under the watchful eye of the great Khmer king, Jayavarman 7th. The reference to the Leper King, well that's another story entirely.
These three registers of friezes at the Leper King Terrace show the royal court with the King surrounded by adoring female company
The secret passageway of the Leper King Terrace was hidden from view for centuries
The King and his attendants sit above a massive naga snake
A royal figure and short sword, with parasols in the background
The attendants or concubines have also been called devata or apsaras - take your pick
The King in all his regal glory is surrounded by well-dressed devata with elaborate headdresses

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Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Secrets uncovered

Female devata on the inside passageway of the Terrace of the Leper King
Now has lived in Angkor all her life. Our visit to the Terrace of the Leper King last week was her first time ever to see the fascinating carvings up close and to walk through the inner passageway. And she's not alone. I'll bring you a few pictures of the carvings later but it still surprises me that my Cambodia friends are always so busy just making ends meet that they don't have the time, or perhaps the inclination, to discover the world around them, or even their own wonderful heritage literally just around the corner.
Now in jovial mood after her visit to Angkor Thom

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