Bakong's male guardians

Though badly weathered and eroded this Bakong dvarapala still retains a thin smile

It's only right that as the girls who adorn the walls of the brick towers at Bakong (in the Roluos Group) have had their stint in the spotlight, now it's the turn of the boys, or the male guardian dvarapala to be precise. There are eight brick towers and I'm not sure why some have devata and others the male figures shown here. They are similar in that they are sculpted from the base brickwork and would've been enhanced by lime mortar (stucco) back when they were fashioned in the 9th century. Much of that has now disappeared, though these males still adopt a dominant and forceful pose, especially as they are the guardians of the temple and their stance would dissuade wrongdoers from entering the holy shrine. Hands on their hips and carrying a spear or long club, these guys mean business.

This dvarapala at Bakong is topped by a mini-temple in lime mortar

Strong and imposing, these male guardians deter evil spirits and wrongdoers

The brickwork with this dvarapala has darkened over the centuries, though he still retains his immense strength

Hands on hips and determined to repel evil spirits from Bakong

This male guardian is holding a small mace or gada, his weapon of attack

A gorgeously carved false door to a brick shrine at Bakong with two fierce lion-monster faces on either door panel just to deter wrongdoers

Devata of Bakong

Up close and personal with a devata from Bakong

Following close on the heels of the rich vein of lintels to be found at the pyramid temple of Bakong, the 9th century capital city of King Indravarman I at Hariharalya, or Roluos as its known today, here are a few of the devata that flank the doorways of some of the eight brick towers at the foot of the pyramid shrine. They share this position with male dvarapalas too, which I will post soon. The devata are made of sculpted brickwork that would've been covered in lime mortar or stucco as it's also called, in their heyday, most of which has cracked and fallen away through time, leaving the exposed brickwork. The figures are in niches which offer representations of mini-temples in themselves. They stand on plinths with full-length skirts and wear conical hats but mother time hasn't been particularly kind to the majority of them in terms of their current appearance.

Looking regal and serene, this devata at Bakong has lost most of one arm

The style of the female form is in its early stages here at Bakong, not yet achieving the beautiful representations we see later at Angkor Wat for example

Another good example of a devata at Bakong, now devoid of its stucco lime mortar covering

This devata has a fat face and isn't at all beautiful in her appearance

On the faint white trace of stucco remains on this devata and is missing from the mini-temple above

This devata stands on a tall plinth and the mini-temple above her is in fair condition, as is she

Bakong lintel views

Vishvakarma sits above a spewing kala on the lintel above. Figures on elephants rise out of the garland.

I'm trying to catch up with some blog posts today including the final instalment of the lintels to be found above the doorways of the eight brick towers that surround the central pyramid sanctuary of Bakong in the Roluos Group, near Siem Reap. Constructed in the 9th century these lintels are evocative and beautifully presented with lots of vegetal scrolling, gods and deities festooned around a central kala theme in most instances. My next posts will show some of the devatas and male guardians that also enhance this particular temple complex.

No fierce kala monster on this lintel, which is practically covered in small naga heads and a central god figure on a plinth. The top of the lintel is badly damaged.

Naga heads, flying apsara figures and a central kala on a lintel that has seen better days

You can just see the brick indentations above the lintel in this photo. The lintel itself is very badly eroded and in danger of collapse.

A more regimented lintel, in fine detail, particularly the gods in a line above the central narrative, though the lintel itself is damaged

Two large nagas form the ends of this lintel narrative, with a central Vishvakarma figure though the rest of the lintel is in poor condition, and in danger of breaking apart

The final lintel, with naga ends, and a small god sitting on the kala, who is spewing forth the garlands from which dancing figures emerge

This is one of the eight brick towers, in the northwest corner, on which these lintels are still in situ and represent some of the finest of their style in all Angkor

Lintel heaven

The north-west brick tower in the foreground with the stepped-pyramid of Bakong behind

I promised you more of the beautiful lintels that adorn the eight brick towers that surround the base of the imposing stepped-pyramid from the 9th century at Bakong in the Roluos Group, near Siem Reap. The sandstone lintels are decorated with a variety of monsters and a richness of motifs that makes them among some of the best decorative lintels in Khmer art, according to many. The upper band of the lintels are usually very high with a row of worshippers or deities. The brick pediments immediately above them were sculpted too but modelled in stucco, which has disappeared over time. Some of the lintels are in fantastic condition though others are weathered or have been disfigured, though each of the lintels here follow pretty much a similar design with floral garlands across the center of the narrative.

Full of figures, fifteen in total with two lion-like creatures known as gajasimha at the ends and Vishvakarma sitting on the kala. There are also naga heads and a row of deities at the top.

A much less intense lintel narrative with far fewer figures though essentially the same design with Vishvakarma the central god

Much of this lintel is badly eroded though figures riding elephants remain clear, as do the deities high above

The figures high above are less defined and the lintel is full of floral scrolling, with Vishvakarma again sat regally on the grinning kala

Quite a vivid lintel though partly disfigured. There are many figures either side of Vishvakarma on a plinth - no kala at all - with a multitude of naga heads and two human figures at the ends of the entwined garlands

Detail from a corner of the final lintel, showing a small figure bearing the weight of the lintel and above a human figure has replaced the makara-cum-gajasimha

Amongst the best?

One of the beautiful lintels to be found at Bakong in Roluos

The sandstone lintels that can be found adorning the eight brick towers that surround the base of the central pyramid temple of Bakong in the Roluos Group near Siem Reap, are considered by many who know their stuff, as amongst the very finest lintels in Khmer art. Later today I'll post some photos of most of the lintels in situ so you can judge for yourself. They date from the late 9th century, the reign of King Indravarman I and whilst they are rich with figures, their central motif is usually a kala with vegetal garlands and makaras or nagas appearing at the ends. I visited Bakong a few weeks ago and whilst I agree they are very beautiful lintels, their narratives are bested by other lintels I've seen on my travels, though perhaps not in such high numbers as can be found at Bakong. More to come.

Finer detail from the lintel above. The central figure is Vishvakarma sitting astride kala who is spewing garlands, upon which 4 figures are riding elephants. There are sea makaras at each end, lots of floral scrolling and a line of acolytes at the very top of the lintel.